Welcome to the T List, a newsletter from the editors of T Magazine. Each week, we share things we’re eating, wearing, listening to or coveting now. Sign up here to find us in your inbox every Wednesday, along with monthly travel and beauty guides, and the latest stories from our print issues. And you can always reach us at tmagazine@nytimes.com.
Wear This
Beaded Necklaces That Go On and On
In the 1920s, as women’s freedoms grew, so did the length of their necklaces, known as sautoirs. Now, a century later, collars and chokers are once again giving way to longer silhouettes. The Levant Shop’s refurbished antique tasbih prayer beads (a handful of which come adorned with coins and tassels dating back to the late Ottoman period) and the Tribeca jeweler Ted Muehling’s one-of-a-kind creations, which are made with semiprecious stones and finished with 18-karat gold toggle clasps, both fall below the décolletage, while Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co.’s adjustable jade sphere-strung silk cord — currently on offer alongside the late designer’s reissued bone cuffs and snake lariats — extends even farther, to 40 inches. Necklaces that go to such great lengths are “incredibly chic and not obvious,” says Sophie Buhai, who founded her namesake jewelry line in 2015. Her nearly four-foot-long variegated Constellation Necklace — available in carnelian, jade and onyx — can be draped across the shoulder, wound around the waist or wrist, looped and layered à la Coco Chanel, or positioned in reverse to accentuate an exposed back.
While Pluto, the new wine bar from the Berlin-based restaurateur Sören Zuppke and chef Vadim Otto Ursus, does not require a galactic adventure to get to, it does ask for a bit of effort. The main bar is in the last room of a long, railroad apartment-style space that’s hidden behind a storefront. “We liked that from the outside it’s hard to immediately identify as a bar,” says Zuppke. Inspired by Parisian caves à manger and pintxos bars in San Sebastián, Spain, the duo (who are also behind the casual fine-dining restaurant Otto) wanted to create a place for people to drop by spontaneously. The wine list is a mix of favorite classics (a 2010 blend from the Provençal vintner Domaine de Trévallon, for one) and natural wines from Germany (like a 2022 riesling from Glow Glow in the Nahe region), as well as experimental bottles like a Mythopia Finito orange from 2018. The bar menu includes crostini served with a spread made from local pike perch, and chopped veal liver that comes with rye crackers. Artworks on the walls are from Otto regulars, including photographs by Jonas Lindström and a tiny sculpture of a chess pawn by the Berlin-based multidisciplinary artist Gregor Hildebrandt. And in a nod to the dwarf planet that gives the place its name, the walls are painted a deep clay red. pluto-berlin.net.
See This
Kim Yun Shin’s Energetic Sculptures and Paintings, on View in New York
The South Korean artist Kim Yun Shin, 90, has had a six-decade career in which she studied art in Seoul, trained as a lithographer in Paris, taught at multiple universities and founded a Korean immigrant art museum in Argentina. But she didn’t have commercial gallery representation until last year, when she joined Lehmann Maupin. Now, buoyed by a recent surge of interest in her work, Kim will have her first major solo exhibition in New York, featuring paintings and sculptures the artist produced from the 1980s to the present.
Kim’s sculptures are mostly made of sturdy natural materials such as stone and wood, inspired, she says, by a university professor who used to tell her: “Any great sculpture that you make, when you roll it down the mountain it should never break.” For “Add Two Add One Divide Two Divide One 1984-11” (1984), Kim used a chain saw to carve Argentine algarrobo wood, resulting in shapes that look like flourishing plants or human torsos. “Every time I use [the chain saw] there is a sense of anxiousness because I’m scared I’ll get hurt, but also there’s that immense force that I put in,” she says. “My wish is that people can feel that energy.” “Divide Two Divide One” will be on view from April 3 through May 31 at Lehmann Maupin, New York, lehmannmaupin.com.
Impermanence is built into every element of the New York-based floral designer Emily Thompson’s work — from the limited life span of the dramatic organic sculptures she creates for clients like Ferrari and the fashion label Ulla Johnson to the way she conveys ideas to her team of creative collaborators. “I instruct them on what the goals are in quite florid language, I’ve been told, but none of it’s written down,” Thompson says. “It’s kind of lost, the way a lot of our flower pieces are if they aren’t recorded.” With “Emily Thompson Flowers,” a new book that covers the designer’s 15-year career, Thompson now has a more permanent testament to her fantastical arrangements that swoop, drape and spill across tables and floors. The book features nearly 200 images of installations alongside close-ups of her materials, including weeds, pine needles and moss. In addition to a foreword by the British royal family florist Shane Connolly and an introduction from the T writer at large Nancy Hass, Thompson’s own writing accompanies each themed section of the book, which correspond to six of her recurring inspirations, including thickets, cascades and heaps. $65, phaidon.com/monacelli.
Smell This
An Italian Perfumer Bottles the Scent of “American Psycho”
Ever wonder what Patrick Bateman, the fictional king of vanity rituals, smells like? A stack of crisp business cards mixed with cleaning products? Or 1980s office carpet and cocaine? Johan Bergelin, the founder of the Milan-based perfumer 19-69, which specializes in conceptual fragrances that reference counterculture (like Purple Haze and Female Christ), wanted to find an answer. He traveled to Los Angeles to present a litany of scents to Bret Easton Ellis, the author of “American Psycho” (1991). Ellis, in his 20s when he wrote the novel, wore Ralph Lauren Polo Green back then. After hours sniffing his way through Bergelin’s curated array, Ellis was intrigued by notes from natural sources like florals, combined with some of synthetic origin, like aqua accord, and how they “moved me into different places of that decade and that era,” he says. Bergelin ended up making a fragrance with notes of bergamot, sage, aqua accord (it smells clean and polished) and jasmine. The final American Psycho scent isn’t anchored in blood or darkness but fine sparkling water, icy sorbet and the bright yet subtle aroma of a freshly laundered power suit. The perfume is the first in a forthcoming series of fragrances inspired by Ellis’s books. $203, nineteen-sixtynine.com.
Covet This
A Dolce & Gabbana Cashmere Collection Found Only on Madison Avenue
The Italian fashion house Dolce & Gabbana often draws inspiration from midcentury Italian films and the designer Domenico Dolce’s Sicilian roots, resulting in pieces that range from lacy negligees to traditionally tailored shirts and suits. The brand has operated stores in New York since 1997, in a sense continuing the long tradition of New York businesses with roots in Sicily (Manhattan’s Little Italy neighborhood was largely established by families with ties to the island, as well as what are now the southern Italian regions of Campania and Puglia). This month, to celebrate the opening of a new five-story flagship store on Madison Avenue, Dolce & Gabbana is releasing a collection of cashmere knitwear and outerwear that will be exclusively sold at the boutique. Classic two-button men’s topcoats with peaked lapels that look straight out of a Federico Fellini or Luchino Visconti film are offered in classic neutral shades like ivory and a butterscotch tan. For women, single- and double-breasted coats come in a springy palette of periwinkle, turquoise and dusty rose. There are also pullover sweaters, and crew-neck cardigans that have buttons emblazoned with a gold DG logo. Each piece in the capsule features a special label that reads “Madison Avenue New York,” reminding wearers of its provenance. From $1,195, (917) 525-5200.
