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When Did Restaurant Salads Get So Big?

The green salad at Meetinghouse, a modern pub in Philadelphia, is something of an architectural marvel. Layer upon interlocking layer of gem romaine leaves slicked with spiky Dijon vinaigrette form a cylindrical tower, crowned by a tuft of watercress and minced chives. During a recent dinner service, it averaged about eight inches in height, but…

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The Last of the Winter Salads

I’m not someone who usually seeks out salads in my daily life, mostly because I fear they won’t be filling enough and, in part, because I think the greens that fuel the salad industrial complex — romaine, little gem, iceberg, subpar arugula — are so, so boring. But when I’m playing Nikita the Restaurant Writer,…

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