Saint James seeks clarity on U.S. tariffs as trade deadline nears

“At Saint James, we need clear rules.” At the headquarters of French fashion label Saint James, based in Manche, Normandy, management is calling for greater stability amid ongoing trade discussions between the European Union and the United States over import tariffs.

Not far from Mont-Saint-Michel, textile workers at the Saint James workshop (pronounced “Saint-Geamme”) produce sweaters, pea coats, and the brand’s iconic Breton striped shirts. The company generates approximately €80 million in annual revenue, with 40% coming from exports—one-third of that to North America.

Naturally, this mid-sized enterprise—with 400 employees, including 300 in Normandy—is closely watching the latest announcements from the U.S. administration regarding tariffs.

The cotton Breton shirt, sold at €95 in France, currently retails for $140 in the United States. “With a 16.5% tariff, that price could jump to $155,” explained Luc Lesénécal, president of Saint James, who recently returned from New York after attending the opening of a pop-up store.

“That’s a significant increase, especially considering that over the past two years, we’ve already faced numerous price hikes due to rising costs of raw materials, cotton, labor, and energy,” said Lesénécal.

“In exporting, we’re used to managing exchange rates and fluctuations in raw materials and energy,” he added. “But when tariff rates shift—sometimes even retroactively—it becomes much harder to plan ahead.”

On Monday, French President Emmanuel Macron said he was “confident” about EU–U.S. trade discussions, following President Donald Trump’s announcement that he would extend the suspension of tariffs on EU goods until July 9. Just days earlier, Trump had threatened to impose a 50% duty on imports from the 27 EU member states starting June 1.

In this uncertain context, Manuela Horeau, international sales director at Tricots Saint James, raised concerns about timing in the fashion industry, which typically operates six months ahead of each season.

“Do we pass on the full increase to consumers? Do we do it right away or gradually? It all has significant implications. And what will other brands do?” she asked.

Brad Pitt and George Clooney

Saint James has had a presence in the U.S. market for over 20 years and is stocked in 150 stores. Still, Lesénécal remains optimistic, convinced that the brand’s garments reflect the “French art of living” and a craftsmanship that American consumers continue to value.

Inside the main workshop, textile artisans work beneath a large black-and-white poster featuring Brad Pitt and George Clooney wearing Saint James pieces on a sidecar. It’s a striking symbol of the brand’s cultural resonance across the Atlantic.

Skilled hands—mostly women—focus on producing garments such as the sailor-style wool sweater, which requires 18 production steps, 23 kilometers of wool yarn, and at least 15 days from knitting to finishing.

In the quality control room, Viviane Rête, head of the department, described the artisanal nature of the work: “We work with our hands—machines can’t do this. We only use a knitting needle and our eyes.”

A symbol of the long-standing connection between Saint James and the United States, the Stars and Stripes flies near the factory entrance. A nearby monument commemorates August 2, 1944, when American forces established a forward base in the town. Today, 4,410 U.S. soldiers are buried in the Normandy American Cemetery—a powerful reminder of shared history.

By Benjamin Massot
Saint-James (France), May 27, 2025 (AFP)