Kookaï seeks new franchisees as relaunch continues in France

At the end of 2023, French fashion group Antonelle-Un jour ailleurs (UJA) bought womenswear retailer Kookaï following receivership proceedings. The group decided to keep 33 of Kookaï’s retail outlets (16 stores and 17 corners) and 70 employees. Having kept a low profile since then, Antonelle-UJA is now talking again about Kookaï’s relaunch, as the brand is trying to win back the place it had in French consumers’ hearts. Though the market is still tough to navigate, Samy Cohen, president of Antonelle-UJA, said he has “managed to open some 15 new stores in the last year and a half, most of them directly owned and some with franchisees.”

Last year, Kookaï opened stores in the French towns of Brest, Castres and Haguenau, and this year in Metz.

Kookaï now operates about 50 retail outlets (between monobrand stores and department store concessions), and is seeking new partners to expand its store fleet. Five new openings with franchisees are scheduled before the end of 2025, notably in Béthune and La Baule. Kookaï is looking to open in towns with over 30,000 inhabitants, where it seeks city-centre premises of 70 to 120 square metres. In 2026, it is hoping to open between 10 and 15 new stores.

The difficulties experienced by many fashion retailers, for example Comptoir des Cotonniers and IKKS, are regarded as opportunities by Kookaï, which is hoping to win over some of these struggling brands’ franchisees. The contract the group is offering includes an entry fee of €10,000.

Cohen has not disclosed Kookaï’s revenue, but said that the retailer has grown 15% in like-for-like terms since the start of 2025. He attributed this positive result to the brand’s repositioning following the acquisition. “Between 2017 and 2023, [Kookaï] belonged to an Australian businessman, Rob Cromb, who introduced a sexy style more appropriate to his market, targeting young women between 20 and 30 years old. We have reoriented the brand toward a French clientèle, with less daring looks, while preserving the contemporary feminine touch typical of Kookaï,” said Cohen. The brand has shifted its main target to 35-40-year-olds, and has slightly raised prices to feature higher quality fabrics.

Kookaï’s design team works at the group’s headquarters in Pantin, alongside the staff of Antonelle and UJA. “They are physically in the same building, but each brand functions independently,” said Cohen. Antonelle and UJA are both targeting an older clientèle. While Antonelle’s results are described as “variable,” UJA, which was bought by the group in 2020, has extended its footprint, growing from “a revenue of €10 million at the time of the acquisition to €25 million now,” said Cohen, a result achieved by opening both directly owned and franchised stores.

Cohen is always on the lookout for market opportunities, but isn’t aiming to buy a new brand, he is more inclined to make a move for “suitable store locations.” The Antonelle-UJA group employs more than 400 people, including 100 for Kookaï.

Kookaï was founded in Paris’s Sentier district in 1983 by Jean-Lou Tepper, Jacques Nataf and Philippe de Hesdin. It was owned by the Vivarte group between 1996 and 2017, when it was acquired by its Oceania franchisee, the Magi Group, led by Rob Cromb. Kookaï made a name for itself 40 years ago in France by creating the ‘kookaïette’ look, bringing a touch of impertinence to the mid-range fashion segment thanks to its colourful, easy-to-wear knitwear and high-impact advertising campaigns.