How buyers see this season—Maud Pupato from Printemps shares her insight

After six weeks of fashion weeks spanning New York, London, Milan, and Paris, the French capital closed out the runway marathon last week with an intense ten-day finale. As international trade dynamics remain uncertain and the luxury sector undergoes significant transformations, FashionNetwork.com spoke with department store buyers to gather their thoughts on the season, emerging trends, and key highlights. Maud Pupato, luxury womenswear and accessories buying director at Printemps, shares her perspective.

FashionNetwork.com: What key trends emerged from this season’s runway shows?

Maud Pupato: Romanticism and maximalism are making a strong comeback, perfectly embodied by Chloé and Valentino. Materials largely define this season’s trends. Fur is a dominant feature, appearing in coats, skirts, scarves, and collar accents. It was everywhere on the runways. Leather also played a pivotal role, adding power in head-to-toe looks or bringing modernity when paired with sophisticated or formal pieces—like at the Saint Laurent show, where bomber jackets provided a striking contrast to evening gowns.

Tailoring remains a key trend but is evolving—moving from masculine cuts to a more refined, intellectual take. Calvin Klein’s show was the perfect example, offering structured coats and suits with a controlled sensuality. Styling and layering also played an increasingly prominent role, inspiring direct runway-to-street looks and encouraging individual reinterpretation.

FNW: With so many industry changes, what’s your overall impression of this season?

MP: This season, there’s an optimistic energy reflected in more colorful, vibrant, and richly embellished collections. However, there’s still a strong sense of nostalgia, with designers reworking the past through a modern lens. We saw this at Miu Miu, Saint Laurent, Chloé, Valentino, Givenchy, and Prada.

At the same time, black remains a dominant color, while soft, enveloping materials—like wool—evoke a sense of warmth and intimacy (The Row) or a winter fairytale aesthetic (Max Mara). Creativity took center stage, with brands cleverly reinterpreting their own codes, particularly at Courrèges, Fendi, and Givenchy.

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FNW: Which three shows stood out the most, and why?

MP: Saint Laurent delivered an exceptionally strong collection, offering a futuristic vision rooted in an evocative past. Miu Miu was once again a highlight—the brand continues to refine its voice, creating conceptual and wearable looks. Lastly, The Row offered a truly standout moment. The show unfolded in an intimate setting, with models walking barefoot in tights, creating a quiet, powerful atmosphere. The collection itself was breathtaking.

FNW: In your opinion, which designer debuts were the most successful this season?

MP: Calvin Klein’s first collection under Veronica Leoni was one of the most compelling of the season. The brand approached its debut with humility but delivered a clear, thoughtful vision. In Paris, Sarah Burton also made an impressive entrance at Givenchy, offering striking statement pieces with a rich, expressive color palette.

FNW: Among independent brands and emerging designers, whose collections made an impact?

MP: Belgian designer Julie Kegels, in her second season in Paris, reworked classic tailoring with references to the 1980s and bold, sculptural silhouettes. On the other hand, Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran’s brand, Matières Fécales, brought a daring, unconventional take on glamour, embracing a darkly theatrical aesthetic.

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FNW: What are the must-have pieces this season? Which materials and colors will define the look?

MP: Fur—whether in full coats or as subtle detailing—is unavoidable this season. But beyond that, several standout pieces are emerging: a classic or leather trench, a perfectly tailored blazer, or a structured wool coat. Knit skirt-and-sweater sets are also gaining traction. For tops, I see strong interest in blouses with lavallière ties or ruffles, as well as simple white tank tops styled with visible satin lingerie. Knee-high socks or thigh-high stockings paired with sandals are also key styling elements.

In terms of color, we’re seeing bright, retro-inspired hues: red, olive green, blue, and pink. The must-have accessories? A structured bowling bag or ladylike handbag worn at the elbow and a cinched belt to define the waist.

FNW: Speaking of accessories, do you see any emerging trends?

MP: This season, head accessories played a major role, appearing at Valentino, Magda Butrym, Coperni, Marine Serre, and Christopher Esber. Scarves were also a key feature at Miu Miu, Courrèges, Ferragamo, and Acne Studios. Heels are getting higher—I saw fewer kitten heels and ballet flats. As for jewelry, the trend is all about layering: stacked crystal necklaces, oversized earrings, and chunky bangles are making a strong statement.