French womenswear brand Barbara Bui returns to profit in 2024

The Paris-based womenswear label, known for its leather tailoring and rock-inspired denim, posted improved financial results as it continues navigating a restructuring process. 

Founded in 1987 by designer Barbara Bui, the brand has built a loyal following for its sharp, modern aesthetic. In July 2023, Barbara Bui placed itself under the protection of the Paris Commercial Court to restructure its debt while maintaining operations. One year later, the brand reported a clear financial turnaround: in 2024, it recorded a 3% increase in revenue to €12.4 million and posted net income of €242,000, significantly reducing its operating losses.

Despite an especially turbulent year for the luxury sector, Barbara Bui marked its “fourth consecutive year of growth.” Retail sales rose 10%, bolstered by a 27% surge in e-commerce—a sign of the strength of its digital strategy—and a 6% increase in revenue across its three Paris boutiques, located on Avenue Montaigne, Rue de Grenelle and Rue des Saints-Pères. This momentum held steady despite disruptions related to the Olympic Games.

According to the brand, wholesale sales rose 1%. Barbara Bui distributes its collections through around 140 multi-brand retailers globally, with France as the primary market, followed by Europe and the United States.

The company also reported a strong improvement in gross margin, which rose to 75%, up three points from 2023. Barbara Bui, still led by its founder and current CEO William Halimi, turned a €932,000 net loss in 2023 into a €242,000 net profit in 2024.

Thanks to tighter control over production costs and better product mix optimization, Barbara Bui cut its recurring operating loss in half—from €618,000 to €298,000. Its overall operating loss also narrowed significantly, dropping from €582,000 in 2023 to €165,000 last year.

Seeking a financial partner

The brand also strengthened its financial position by boosting cash reserves to €1.8 million as of December 31, 2024, compared to €1.2 million the previous year. Equity reached €1.2 million, while financial debt stood at €2.2 million.

Barbara Bui remains under observation by the Paris Commercial Court, which is scheduled to assess its status on July 4. “The group is currently preparing a continuation plan to restructure its debt and exit the current procedure. At the same time, Barbara Bui is actively seeking a financial partner to support the execution of this plan,” the company said.