Fashion weeks: Isabelle Fine on this season’s top collections, trends, and emerging brands

The Fall-Winter 2025/26 runway season ended last week in Paris after captivating showcases in New York, London, and Milan. From February 6 to March 11, designers brought their latest womenswear collections to life, setting the tone for the season ahead.

This extended session provided an opportunity to gauge the current direction of fashion at a time when the luxury market has been under strain for a year due to economic conditions and geopolitical tensions, and the industry is navigating a period of intense transformation.

FashionNetwork.com spoke with department store buyers to gather their thoughts on the season, emerging trends, and key takeaways. Isabelle Fine, womenswear director at Le Bon Marché, shares her analysis.

FashionNetwork.com: What was your impression of this Fall-Winter 2025/26 season?

Isabelle Fine: Paris remains, without a doubt, the most important and influential fashion week. Milan continues to be engaging, whereas London felt somewhat less dynamic this season. Given the current political and economic landscape, along with the absence of certain shows due to ongoing shifts in creative direction, there was a noticeable sense of uncertainty. However, strong artistic visions still prevailed, with powerful collections and an undeniable energy—especially in Paris. Overall, brands took a cautious approach but embraced more defined creative stances.

FNW: What key trends stood out?

IF: There’s a noticeable return to a more feminine and sensual aesthetic. Collections felt less uniform and moved away from the quiet luxury trend. Women’s fashion feels freer and more refined, particularly in fabric choices, with a strong mix of textures. Fur played a major role, appearing across both clothing and accessories, adding richness to silhouettes and reinforcing a sense of sophistication.

Bold accessories, like oversized necklaces and brooches, and structured shoulders emphasized strength and confidence. The waist was also a focal point—highly defined, signaling a shift away from the oversized, masculine tailoring of past seasons.

FNW: What other standout materials defined this new take on femininity?

IF: Beyond fur and knitwear, leather was everywhere—in coats, jackets, bombers, skirts, and trousers. It had a slightly more rebellious, almost punk edge, even showing up at Chloé with a grunge-inspired attitude. These elements reinforce a sense of freedom and individuality.

FNW: Which shows made the biggest impression on you?

IF: Alaïa was one of the most striking, with sculptural silhouettes, impeccable knitwear craftsmanship, and dynamic movement that celebrates the body. Pieter Mulier is doing fantastic work—his expertise in knitwear techniques is exceptional. I especially loved the hooded sweater, both for its refined craftsmanship and enveloping, cocoon-like feel.

I also enjoyed Sacai—Chitose Abe, who is always innovative, and her vision remains one of the strongest. Then there’s The Row, which delivered poetic simplicity, exquisite craftsmanship, and commanding silhouettes. Lastly, Miu Miu continues to redefine femininity, always with a daring and creative approach.

 
FNW: How do you approach buying for Le Bon Marché’s clientele?

IF: We aim to balance timeless wardrobe staples and standout statement pieces. That means selecting both wearable essentials and bold, high-fashion pieces. The same approach applies to our brand curation.

We are fortunate to have a strong Parisian clientele, and we buy with their specific tastes and lifestyles in mind. The process is highly intuitive—we consider trends but don’t follow them unthinkingly. Creativity is just as important as commercial appeal.

FNW: What role do emerging designers and independent brands play in your strategy?

IF: Discovering new talent and up-and-coming designers is essential to our buying approach. We are trendsetters but must also introduce fresh, exciting names to surprise our customers.

We have dedicated multi-brand spaces for these rising designers, and our goal is to rotate new names every season. Exclusive collaborations are also a key part of our strategy.

FNW: Which emerging brands caught your attention this season?

IF: Zomer stood out—it strikes a great balance between creativity and wearability. Alainpaul also made an impact—its approach to movement and the body, influenced by dance, gives it a unique artistic sensitivity. It’s essential to support and showcase these new voices in fashion.

FNW: What are your must-have pieces and accessories for next winter?

IF: We see jackets with wide, rounded shoulders and subtly cinched waists in tailoring. Bomber jackets, structured leather outerwear, and plush knitwear are also key.

Regarding accessories, I was drawn to the dramatic, oversized thigh-high boots, which channel the power-dressing aesthetic of the 1980s. Feminine socks and stockings also made a statement. Belts define the waist, while charms and keychains add a playful touch to handbags.

Jewelry is shifting away from minimalism—we’re seeing a return to bold, maximalist accessories, which allow for more personalized, expressive styling.

FNW: What standout colors did you notice?

IF: While black, gray, and brown remain essential, I also saw a bold use of color—deep reds, rust tones, ochre, and softer pastels.

Regarding buying strategy, we’ll balance timeless autumnal tones with statement hues that add depth and personality, ensuring that key pieces tell a story and align with a brand’s creative vision.

FNW: Which new creative directions stood out the most?

IF: Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford was a major highlight. His tailoring is impeccable, and he brings elegance and sensuality without being overtly provocative. He seamlessly merged his own aesthetic with the DNA of the house, which is no easy task, and he pulled it off beautifully.

I was also moved by Julien Klausner’s debut at Dries Van Noten. The show had a strong narrative of legacy and artistic transmission, which is always a challenge—especially with Dries himself present. Klausner managed to honor the brand’s identity while bringing in fresh energy.

And, of course, Sarah Burton’s debut at Givenchy was another standout moment.

FNW: How have fashion weeks evolved over recent seasons?

IF: A year or two ago, creativity wasn’t at the forefront of the shows. This season, there was a noticeable return to creative energy. However, I believe the real creative resurgence is yet to come—I expect it to materialize fully next season.

We’re at the beginning of something big, and September’s shows will be incredibly exciting.