Cruise 2026 marks new era for Gucci as Demna Gvasalia prepares to take lead

Gucci staged a symbolically rich Cruise 2026 show in Florence, drawing from its archives to mark a new beginning. While heritage references are common among luxury houses, this moment carried added weight for Gucci—coming in the wake of Sabato De Sarno’s departure and just months before the highly anticipated debut of new creative director Demna, set for July.

The new chapter unfolded with the Cruise 2026 collection, unveiled in the heart of Florence. Models walked through the elegant first floor of Palazzo Settimanni—a 15th-century building owned by the Kering group and home to Gucci’s archives—before continuing along Via delle Caldaie and concluding the show in Piazza Santo Spirito. The closure of the piazza to the public for the event sparked criticism from some local residents.

For the occasion, Gucci transformed the square into an exclusive open-air venue. The brand polished the central fountain, removed graffiti, and arranged guest seating around the landmark, covering the costs. Nearby bars were temporarily closed, and the area was framed with tables and chairs. Among the celebrity attendees were actress Julia Garner, Viola Davis with Julius Tennon, Mark Ronson, Paul Mescal, and Jeff and Emily Goldblum.

By opening its archive to the public in the city of its origin, Gucci honored its fashion legacy from 1921 to the present. The collection also paid tribute to Florence’s centuries-old textile craftsmanship. Looks featured rich brocades, jacquards, silks, velvets, and lace embellished with rhinestones and fine embroidery.

Some speculated whether Demna had a hand in the 42-look lineup, but Gucci clarified that its in-house creative team designed the collection. Demna is expected to take over creative leadership gradually.

Key archival elements reappeared prominently. The double-G monogram appeared on sheer tights as rhinestone patterns, while the single G accentuated buckles, inlays, and heels. The silhouettes referenced the 1970s, with sharply tailored blazers and defined shoulders. Accessories included archival-style handbags and a new model, Giglio—named after Florence’s symbolic lily—which was available for immediate purchase.

The presentation also included high jewelry pieces made in collaboration with Pomellato: a necklace and a minaudière crafted in leather, gold, and pavé diamonds. The overall tone celebrated heritage, but without veering into nostalgia.

“The way something is done matters more than how much is done,” said CEO Stefano Cantino. “This show authentically expresses Gucci’s identity, in the place that most deeply preserves our story.”